Wednesday, August 6th – LaPoile

We felt a little sad for the remaining residents of Grand Bruit when we left.  It was resettled 4 years ago which means the community voted to relocate, with government help, to other towns.  It usually the case that resettlement votes are not unanimous, and Grand Bruit was no exception – several resident we met did not want to resettle, and live in the town from April to September.  They have no electricity, phones, internet or any other connection to the outside world.  Nor do they have running water.  Their homes appear to be in good shape, but many others are already falling into disrepair.  There’s no ferry service, and we heard a couple of generators running, but the gasoline has to be brought in by small boat.  By our standards, a pretty tough life. 

The day started out overcast with fog threatening, but we went for a walk on the hills (on overgrown footpaths), and the weather brightened up.  We brightened up as well when we saw wild blueberries, and picked some for our breakfast tomorrow.  As usual in the area, we saw several pretty inland ponds.  We also saw some sleds which will presumably no longer be used. 

We set off for LaPoile, 47 41.05N 058 23.75W, with clear skies but no wind.  On the way, we stopped to try our hand at Cod Jigging again.  After 17 minutes we had 2 2lb cod in the bucket! 

We docked at laPoile, and had leftover cod sandwiches for lunch.  Perhaps today’s catch will have to wait until tomorrow before we eat it. 

Ron set about filleting the fish after lunch, trying to emulate Joe from yesterday.  A guy named Ray showed up on the dock and Ron admitted this was his first filleting attempt.  Ray came to the rescue and offered a few tips.  All in all, the filleting went well, although I suspect it will be a little bonier than yesterdays.  While Ron was filleting his fish, Teresa went for a walk and spotted a load of cod fillets hanging on the washing line to dry. 

The highlight of the afternoon was the arrival of the ferry at about 5pm.  It docked on the end of the wharf we were tied to and unloaded a great assortment of supplies and a few people.  A couple of palettes looked like they were intended for the small store, so we tried to see what they contained and what might be fresh tomorrow. 

We have been without internet for quite a while, but the local school had guest wifi, so we were able to post a few day’s worth of blog, catch upon email, and learn that Hurricane Bertha was heading away from us, towards the UK.  (We had not even known we should have been concerned.) 

Ships Log: 4210.5, Todays Log: 9.5, Seasons Total: 622.5

Tuesday, August 5th. Grand Bruit

The water temperature was 17.5C (63F) so we decided to brave a swim.  The water temp wasn’t too bad, but we were a bit put off by the jellyfish so cut the swim short.  Our solar shower, (cool but not cold), finished off the mornings bath/shower activities.  Very much refreshed, we had breakfast and went for a walk along the shore.  We had hoped to walk to the top of the hill, but with no footpaths and dense trees, it was not going to be a pleasant experience.  We opted for a ride around the bay in the dinghy instead. 

We set off for Grand Bruit, 47 40.32N 058 13.54W at about noon, and stopped at a couple of likely looking Cod locations.  There was no wind, so we simply stopped the engines and sat there while Ron jigged for some cod.  And he caught some – 1 small and 2 of decent size.  He also caught the ugliest fish you could imagine – apparently called a Scobie.  This one looked scary so he threw it back. 

Grand Bruit was resettled 4 years ago so we weren’t sure if the port would be deserted.  Fortunately it wasn’t  - there were several people on the dock interested in our boat.  One guy, Joe, had been fishing these waters for 40 odd years, so we asked him if he knew how to fillet a cod.  He had, in fact, done this once or twice before, and Ron watched (and learned?), while he filleted our fish.  We offered him one, but he refused – I guess he’s had cod before too.  We were lucky to have met him, had Ron tried to fillet the fish he would have got ½ the meat Joe got. 

We went for quick walk around town, and inspected the pond above the town, where we’re hoping to swim tomorrow. 

Teresa fried the fish and served it with rice and turnips, (fresh veggies have been in short supply for a while).  The fish was excellent!  And we have enough left over for fish sandwiches tomorrow.

When it was time for washing up, several guys were on the dock looking at our boat, so Ron went outside to talk to them.   Unfortunately, when he finished chatting, all the washing up was done. 

Ships Log: 4201, Todays Log: 7.8, Seasons Total: 613

Monday, August 4th. Culotte Cove

Ron did indeed get some heavier line and hooks, etc. for cod fishing.  To replace the 12lb line he had he got 300lb cod line.  (Should be enough for a pretty big cod!)  Teresa finished off the laundry and we set off at midday in a very light wind for Culotte Cove, 47 42.01N 058 05.79W.  The winds were 4 – 6 knots from just forward of the beam, so we experimented with the mainsail, and managed to add ½ knot boat speed by motor sailing. 

We arrived at another beautiful anchorage at 6:30, tidied the boat up, had dinner and reflected that perhaps we’re spoiling ourselves by anchoring in these beautiful locations, with no other boats.  It wasn’t an area for cod fishing but Ron, well protected from bugs, decided to try his luck fishing for anything at sunset.

Ships Log: 4193.2, Todays Log: 36.1, Seasons Total: 605.2

Sunday August 3rd. Ramea

Another warm sunny day – perhaps the fog has broken at last.  We took an early morning dip and swam along the boat cleaning the waterline.  After breakfast, we bid farewell to MarySol, and headed back down the fjord, where we were interviewed by a police boat carrying out random inspections (we assume).  The winds were very light at sea, so we motored towards Ramea, 47 31.32N 057 23.21W.  After a while the winds picked up and we had a pleasant beat most of the rest of the way.  The winds continued to increase until it was time to reef, but we were now close enough that we simply stowed the sails and motored the last bit. 

We tied up to the wall in Ramea, and took our laundry to the local hostel/shower-room/restaurant.  We had cod and chips for dinner while we waited for the laundry to finish.  It hadn’t finished by 7pm, and the staff wanted to close the building.  They let us stay until 7:30pm, and we left a load of damp clothes in the dryer.  Tomorrow when the building is opened at 11am, they’ll start the dryer for us.  So we won’t get a very early start tomorrow.  Oh well, you just gotta go with the flow …

Back at the boat there was the usual collection of men standing around, chatting and asking us about our boat, travels, etc.  Ron asked for cod fishing tips, and got lots.  Notably, his rod is not designed for the rigors of Cod, and the line and jigger is too small.  So tomorrow morning he’ll be off to the local store for some heavier equipment.  Stand by for some Cod photos …

Ships Log: 4157.1, Todays Log: 22.1, Seasons Total: 569.1

Saturday, August 2nd – Grey River anchorage.

We awoke, (one of us with a hangover), at 8:30, and had to get up to move the boat so that the ferry could dock.  It was a lovely sunny day - yippee.  Since we were up anyway, we set off for a sail up the beautiful Grey River. 

Back in February, our good skiing friend Frank passed away.  Today his ashes were being scattered on Burke Mountain – the New England ski mountian he loved.  There was also a memorial ceremony which we would have loved to have attended, but we are too far away.  So, at 10:30 EST, we stopped the boat in the middle of this beautiful fjord and had our own 2 minutes remembering Frank. 

We continued a very nice sail to the head of the fjord, dropped the hook for lunch, bathed in the warm, fresh fjord water and beat back towards the South East arm where we planned to anchor for the night.  We were getting a workout – the winds were now up to 18 knots, and the tacks in the narrow fjord were very short.  

We noticed a problem with the new batten we had put in the mainsail, and had to drop it and motor the rest of the way.  Shortly after the winds died anyway so we didn’t miss too much.

We anchored at the head of South East arm, 47 36.24N 056 59.03W, next to Mary Sol, our British friend’s boat.  We invited them for drinks, and they invited us for dinner.  We got the best deal – a 4 course meal, with whisky, songs and very nice company.  Originally British (and Northern Irish), they have all been living in Newfoundland for many years, and were able to tell us a lot about the island. 

Ships Log: 4135, Todays Log: 16.7, Seasons Total: 547

Friday, August 1st – Grey River

We had been advised in McCallum, that we should be in Grey River, 47 35.3N 057.10W, for this weekend, so we did.  The trip here was pretty boring thick fog, rain showers, no wind and we couldn’t see any of the beautiful scenery we were sailing past.  However, things changed when we tied up to the ferry dock.  The party was already in full swing, right on the dock.  The 2 Brits we met in Burgeo were also here with an Irish friend, so Teresa was well and truly outnumbered for once.  They indicated that the ferry would be arriving in 20 minutes, so we’d have to vacate the dock.  The ferry arrived, we vacated the dock for 20 minutes and then tied up again for the night.

We stepped ashore right into the Grey River festival. The band was playing, $20 bought you 7 beer tickets, and so we immediately decided to support the local economy.  At 5pm, a pot luck dinner was served for $5 each.  Many different dishes were available cooked by local residents – just like a huge family party into which we were welcomed.  At 7pm the music stopped and the bar closed down with a promise that they’d be back at 9pm.  We returned at 9, and met up with our British friends, Pat, Richard and Melv.  The party went on until 2am – the latest we’d been awake for a long time.  At midnight, we were “Screeched in” and are now officially Newfoundlanders!  Screeching in is a very Newfie ceremony and shouldn’t be taken lightly.  It involves kissing a fish, drinking “Screech” and reciting something, (we forget what, but it seemed very important at the time).  Anyway, we are now Newfies!

Ships Log: 4118.3, Todays Log: 19.1, Seasons Total: 530.3

Wednesday, July 30th and Thursday, July 31st – François

Well we could see Brent Cove a little better this morning, but only just…

We set off for Hare Bay, in thick fog, and drizzle.  Once out of the fjord, the winds were light and the seas were lumpy – all in all a pretty uncomfortable place to be.  At sea, we got the weather forecast which promised more fog, rain and lumpy seas tomorrow, so we decided to head straight for François, 47 34.85N 056 44.63W, (our planned port for Thursday).  This saved us about 20nm of discomfort.  It remained foggy all day and as we entered François, we could hardly see the sides of the fjord, so we felt our decision was vindicated – we wouldn’t have seen much of Hare bay anyway. 

We tied up to the dock and were pleased to find they had gasoline here.  Ron dinghied over to the ferry dock, where the gas is, and filled Quinita’s tanks.  That was a relief since we were starting to get low on fuel and were not sure when we’d have the chance to fill up again. 

About 4:30pm, the fog started to lift and we actually saw some sunshine.  Teresa had been talking to a local girl and got directions for a beautiful hike up the mountain on the west side of the fjord.  There were boardwalks and stairs up to the peak, which we couldn’t find last time we were here (July 12^th).  We were very glad we found it this time, with clear weather, and were able to get some very nice views of the fjord and town.  The walk took us around a large pond, ¾ up the mountain, and, walking on a boardwalk which stuck out over the pond, we surprised an otter who took off at speed.  Unfortunately, by the time we got the camera out, he was too small to photograph. 

We got back to the boat, chatted to some locals – they love to chat – and had dinner.  Just after dinner we saw another couple of otters, but again were too slow to get them on film. 

We saw the ferry dock at 6:30, and were reminded when we saw an ATV making deliveries all over town (including the Post Office), that this was the outport’s only source of goods from the outside world. 

At the end of the dock there’s a house with a chicken coop made of wire.  Often we see a cat sitting on top, but the chickens don’t seem to mind, and the cat doesn’t hassle the chickens.  There’s also a goat in a mini barn with a small yard.  He has a long beard and appears to be lonely.  Every time we walk by he wants attention.  Apparently, last winter, the snow avalanched down the mountain behind his ‘barn’ and killed his lady goat. 

Teresa visited the church.  It was built in 1920, burned down in 1921 and rebuilt in 1922.  This version is still standing today.  It’s a modest yet lovely church, with one stained glass window and a beautiful wooden ceiling.

We did a few jobs on the boat and dressed her overall.  The town is celebrating “Come Home Year” this weekend and the town is decorated with flags so we thought we’d add our little bit of colour.  “Come Home Year” is celebrated by many outports.  They each have different years, and typically celebrate every 5 years.  Family and friends who have left the outport return and, we gather, everyone has a jolly good time. 

Ships Log: 4099.2, Todays Log: 21.1, Seasons Total: 511.2