Friday 31st July

It poured down during the night and the day started rainy.  But it cleared up pretty soon and we headed for the laundromat on our bikes.  We quickly discovered that Halifax is a very hilly city and by the time we got to the laundromat, the sun was out, we were hot and the laundromat was even hotter.  Once the first half of the laundry was done, Ron brought it back to the boat and then returned to the laundromat just as Teresa was finishing up folding the remaining laundry.  We went for a ride into the downtown area with the 2^nd half - how many people take their laundry for a ride downtown?) 

Halifax has a long boardwalk along the waterfront where it seems most of the tourists end up and we joined them.  It’s a nice town and the waterfront was very reminiscent of Boston.

Brenda and Vin were on the way to Halifax so we returned to the boat at about 5:30pm, to find them already there.  They docked behind us, we all queued for the single shower and then went out by taxi for an Indian meal. 

Thursday 30th July.

Forecast was for light winds today, with SW 15 tomorrow which would not be good for a passage to Halifax.  So we set off towards Jeddore, 44 46.21N 63 01.05W, found ourselves making good time and decided to press on to Halifax, .  We motor sailed all day, (10 hours on engine – yuk), but made good time and reached Halifax, 44 38.14N 063 36.75W, a day earlier than expected.  And on the way Quinita passed the 5000 nm mark.

We had reserved a slip at Armdale Yacht Club which is at the end of the west arm of Halifax harbor.  

It’s a beautiful sail up here, with many very nice and presumably expensive houses.  We arrived at the gas dock at 6:30pm, filled our gas tanks and were assigned a slip for the evening.  A small champagne toast later we were eating dinner aboard and planning our excursions to Halifax tomorrow. 

Ships Log: 5034.9, Todays Log: 56.3, Seasons Total: 587

Wednesday 29th July

We had planned to start out at 7am and prepare the boat for sea on the way out of the river which would take about an hour, but it was pretty foggy, so we decided to delay our start.  By 8am the fog was lifting, the boat was prepared and breakfast and lunches were also ready, so we set off.  We had a pleasant, scenic and windless trip down the river and headed out towards Beaver Harbour. 

Once at sea we found light headwinds, so the engine stayed on all day.  We took the inshore route (a passage between the mainland and several small islands), which was both scenic and had flat seas.  After the inshore passage, seas were a little bigger but not too uncomfortable. 

It was cloudy most of the day but in the afternoon, the sky turned blue and the sun shone for an hour.  (We hadn’t seen that for a while!). 

We were making good time, so decided to press on to Mushaboom, 44 50.61N 062 32.05W.  This turned out to be another picturesque anchorage.  We took a swim and sun shower, then it started raining, the sun came out again, and we were presented with the most spectacular double rainbow. 

Ships Log: 4978.6, Todays Log: 37.7, Seasons Total: 530.7

Tuesday 28th July.

The weather gods weren’t

kind to us today.  SW 20 – 25, so we stayed put and did some chores on the boat in the morning during some heavy rain showers.  In the afternoon we had a beautiful walk along the river to a salmon ladder and waterfall.  It wasn’t raining during our walk, apart from a couple of showers, but the foliage we were walking through was soaked and pretty soon transferred its water content to our trousers (pants) and shoes.  It wasn’t cold though, so we were only wet.  The walk was beautiful.

We got back to the boat, decided to throw our wet (and dirty) clothes into the washer,  have a shower and eat in the restaurant again while our clothes were drying.   But the washer and dryer were in use, the dryer was very slow, and so we’re still here in the bar (drinking coffee) and waiting for the clothes to dry at 9:40pm.  Oh well, worse things have happened!

Monday 27th July.

We left Port Howe with some pretty decent headwinds and seas and motored out of the bay (slowly).  Once out however we changed course towards the sw and with sse winds, hoisted the sails and set a course for Webber Cove, 45 12.0N 61 21.42W.  We changed course again to round a headland and found ourselves on a beam reach in 15 knot winds doing 7-8 knots.  So we decided to press on to Fishermans harbour, 45 06.66N 61 40.86W.  We were sailing fast with southerly winds and figured we’d get to Fishermans too early, so not wanting to look a gift horse in the mouth, changed our plans again and headed for Liscomb Mills, 45 00.61N 62 06.08W. 

A few miles offshore and in 140 feet of water we found the only crab pot buoy in the area and picked it up on one of our rudders.  The wind was too strong and the wave too big to try to untangle it so we cut the line.  I wondered if it had drifted off position, since it seemed a long way out and a long way for a fishing boat to reap its harvest.  Anyway, we had little choice.  And once again, there was a lot of line on the surface. 

It was a great days sail, albeit a little rolly with 4-6ft seas.  We sailed just over 50 miles at an average speed of just over 6 knots (including weighing anchor and untangling the pot).  Wouldn’t mind a few more passages like that, particularly since we were sailing against the prevailing winds. 

Liscomb River is beautiful, and our anchorage at the end was even beautifuller!  There is a resort here, with a dock, but the dock was full which was why we anchored.  The resort allowed us to use their facilities however, so after a cold day we took a sauna, had a shower and a nice meal in the restaurant. 

Ships Log: 4940.9, Todays Log: 52.9, Seasons Total: 493

Sunday, 26th July.

We’re heading for Maine (via Halifax of course)!  We left St. Peters and the Bras d’Or in light winds towards Port Howe, 45 14.27N 061 05.81W.  We motored most of the way, but did manage to have several hours of pleasant sailing in southerly and southeasterly winds.  The prevailing winds are of course southwesterly, so we were grateful for the winds we got. 

On the way we saw a school (or what?) of seals.  The only seals we’ve seen so far have been pretty timid and all we’ve seen are their heads.  But these were swimming on the surface similar to dolphins.  It didn’t last long though and we weren’t quick enough with the camera. 

We passed through Dover Passage, 45 14.12N 61 03.26W, on the way to Port Howe.  This is a narrow, rock strewn passage but very pretty.  (The rocks are visible, so it’s not too difficult a passage and of course, modern GPS helps!).  Port Howe is also very pretty, quiet and secluded. 

We explored some of the coves by dinghy and one of us spent an hour on the tramp doing yoga in warm sunshine, with a gentle breeze and birds singing - very tranquil.

Ships Log: 4888, Todays Log: 34.4, Seasons Total: 440.1

Saturday 25th July.

We left at 9am with forecasts of rain showers and easterly winds and the day started with a search for Beinn Breagh – the home of Alexander Graham Bell.  We motored past several candidates before finding the real one; once you see it, it’s obvious that the one.   And after what seemed like hundreds of photos, we set off at 10am for St. Peters. 

Thankfully, the rain didn’t materialize, but the easterly winds did.  We had a great sail with screecher (big light wind foresail), alternating with genoa and back to screecher again.  Wind speeds varied between 8 knots and 15 knots and the boat speed was mostly between 5 and 8 knots.  It doesn’t get much better than this.  (Well perhaps a little sunshine would have been better). 

We arrived at St. Peters, and replenished our fuel and water supplies before picking up a mooring.  Then got to the grocery store for some last minute shopping just before it closed. 

Ships Log: 4853.6, Todays Log: 34.5, Seasons Total: 405.7